S 1309 
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\ 

aOPYRIOMTEB BY 

J. W. GODDARD Au SONS 

(incohporatks) 
• a-S4-»« BLCCCKER ST., NEW YORK 



Dressmakers 
Dictionary 



PRICE 

TWENTY-FIVE 

CENTS 



(^, ^ui'^irvw^xv O 



Copyrighted, 1916, by 

J. W. GODDARD & SONS 

(Incorporated) 
92-94-96 BLEECKER ST., NEW YORK 



Acknowledging the Dress- 
makers' Chart in the center 
of this booklet, from the 
Jno. J. Mitchell Co., Pub- 
lishers, and valuable assist- 
ance from the Dry Goods 
Economist. 



rs/3o9 




SEP 19 1916 

©CI.A437740 

Compiled by 

HOMER S. CURTIS 

1916 



With Our 
Compliments 



^^^^^HE purpose of this little 
m C"*\ booklet is not to bore you 
^L J with things you already 

^^i^^ know, but rather to sup- 
ply you with information that may 
prove useful and interesting. 

A careful perusal cannot fail to aid 
you in tasteful and harmonious 
selection of fabrics for your suits 
and gowns, possibly strengthening 
your judgment and, perhaps, point- 
ing the way to more beautiful and 
finer wardrobes, without an increased 
expenditure. 

That you will find it helpful is the 
wish of the makers of 




Witchiex Is a Universal Linmg 

Fabric Terms 

A List, Giving the Meaning of the Terms in 

Everyday Use at Dress Goods and 

Silk Counters. 

Agra Gauze — Strong, transparent silk fabric of 
a gauzy texture. ^^ 

Agaric — ^A cotton fabric of loop yam construction, 
having a surface somewhat similar to a fine Turkish 
toweling. 

Armoisine— Also spelled "Armozeen" and "Armo- 
zine." In the 18th century and earlier this fabric 
was used in both men's and women's wear. It was 
of a taffeta or plain silk texture. 
Armure — In olden times this was the spelling given 
to "Armor." Comes in small patterns like bird's 
eye, pebble, diamond and other designs resembling 
chain armor. 

Bandanna or Bandana — From the Hindustani 
language meaning to tie or bind in a knot. General- 
ly dyed in blue, red or yellow colors. 
Barrathea Cloth — Made in ribbed styles that 
alternate to produce a coarse granulated effect. 
This silk is of English origin, first made in both 
plain and twilled weaves. 

Barre — A striped or barred design, woven or 
printed, returning from selvage to selvage. 
Basket Weave — A silk deriving its name through 
the similarity to basket weaving. 
Batiste — Comes in plain, figured or woven designs 
with small patterns. The silk batistes are sheer in 
texture. 

Bayadere — Applied to fabrics in which the stripe, 
whether woven or printed, runs crosswise; that is, 
from selvage to selvage. 

Bedford Cord — A wool or cotton fabric having a 
corded effect running lengthwise of the piece, the 
cords being very slightly separated. Cotton Bed- 
ford cords closely resemble a wide- welt pique. 
See "Welt." 
Beige — ^A natural color or undyed fabric. 



Witchtex Is for All Fashionable Silhouettes 

Bengaline— A heavy corded fabric somewhat 
resembling poplins and is generally made with 
a worsted filling. 

Biretz— This is sometimes called "Electoral Cloth." 
Made of silk and wool, being corded on one side and 
on the other of a cashmere or twilled design. 

Bluteau— Also known as "Bolting Cloth." Of 
linen, hair or silk threads, characterized by the open 
mesh and used in mills for sifting flour, etc. Noted 
for the perfection and regularity of the weave. 
Bombazine — This fabric is of a silk warp and 
worsted weft. 

Botany — A fine grade of Australian wool. Applied 
also to yams. 

Boucle — Having knots, loops or curls on the sur- 
face. Usually employed for cloakings. 
Bourette — A rough surfaced effect, produced by 
introducing lumpy, knotted yams at intervals in 
the weaving. Homespun. 

Brillante — From the French meaning brilliant. 
This is a piece dyed fabric of a light, sheer weight, 
made of raw silk throughout. Chiefly used in 
millinery work and not recommended for other 
uses because of its tendency to slip. 

Broadcloth — A fine woolen cloth, having a smooth, 
glossy surface, with a twilled back. 

Brocade — ^This term is used in describing many 
fabrics besides silk. Shows floral, leaf, and other 
patterns in raised effects. In more expensive 
materials it is sometimes enriched with gold and 
silver. 

Broca telle — Used for curtains and upholstery 
purposes. It is made of silk and wool, silk, silk 
and cotton, and all wool threads of more or less 
silky appearance. It is inferior to the previously 
described brocaded fabrics. 

Broch^ — The French term for "brocade." Elabor- 
ate figures woven on the surface of the fabric. 
Cachemire de Sole — A broad silk material that 
has a fine twill, resembles cashmere in its finish. 
Canton Grepe — A fabric made of a fine quality 



Wiichiex Is a Modern Lining 



of Canton silk of crepe weave, and heavier than 
crepe de Chine or crepe meteor. 
Cashmere — A woolen fabric of twilled construc- 
tion and soft finish, having the twill on the "right" 
side. 

Challis — ^A light-weight, plain-weave dress fabric 
of wool or of cotton, or of cotton and wool; usually 
printed. 

Charmeuse — A light-weight crepe satin having 
a high natural luster. 

Chenille Cloth — Has a chenille thread made in 
combination with cotton or worsted warp. 
Cheviot — A heavy, rough-surfaced woolen fabric, 
either twilled or made of knotted yams. 

Chiffon — A sheer silk tissue of plain weave and 
soft finish. The word is often used to indicate 
light weight and soft finish, as "chiffon velvet." 

Chiffon Taffeta — ^As its name indicates this fabric 
is a soft silk and has a fine lustrous finish. 

China Silk — This silk is made in China and some- 
times is known as a China Pongee. The name is 
also given to a class of Asiatic materials of a semi- 
transparent character. Is a plain weave with a 
lustrous finish. 

Chinchilla — A fabric made of fine wool, having a 
surface composed of small tufts closely imited. 
Chine — Warp-printed. A fabric wherein the 
design, being printed on the warps, appears some- 
what faintly and in indefinite outline. 

Chirimen — A Japanese silk crape. 

Corah Silk — Comes from the East Indies, is of 

a creamy-white color, light weight and washable. 

Corset Cloth — A heavy satin in which swiveled 

figures are sometimes used. Principally for Corset 

Covers. 

C6te de Cheval— A cotton weave with ribs running 

lengthwise of the piece and made of silk, worsted 

or cotton. 

Cotele — A silk of heavy ribbing that has from ten 

to twenty ribs to the inch. 



Witchtex Is a Foundation Material 

Covert — A wool or worsted cloth, usually in fine 
twill weave, in small mixture effect. 

Cravenette — A waterproofing process applied to 
fabrics made of silk, wool or cotton. Not a fabric. 
Crepe — Also spelled "Crape." There are several 
different kinds of fabrics in this class. They are 
of thin stuff crinkled in both irregular and parallel 
ridge designs. 

Crepe Charmeuse — ^A piece dyed fabric with a 
dull luster. Made with grenadine silk for the warp 
with a crepe twist for the filling. Also the satin 
weave. 

Crepe de Chine — ^A smooth lustrous fabric with 
a finely crinkled effect, is pieced dyed, has raw silk 
warp filled with alternating twists of hard twisted 
tram. 

CrSpe Lease — Resembles veiling. Very light and 
open and has both crepe warp and filling. 
Crdpe Lisse — An extremely light and highly glossed 
crepe material. 

Crepe Meteore — ^This fabric has a fine twilled 
surface and is very lustrous. 
Crepela — As its name implies it has a small creped 
effect. 

Crepon — A fabric made of yarns having a different 
degree of shrinkage and having a crinkled or 
blistered effect. 

Croquete — French for "crackled." Fabrics hav- 
ing a surface broken by irregular sunken lines, the 
patterns thus formed being either large or small. 
Crystalline — Very similar to Bengaline in appear- 
ance. Has a worsted filling. 
Damask — Gets its name from the city in which 
it was originally made — Damascus. A silk that 
shows figures on a ground of contrasting weave. 
Damasse — Applied to fabrics having a rich, woven 
design. Similar to damask. 

Dimity — A fine cotton fabric, plain or printed, 
having a cord design running lengthwise. 
Double Plush — A plush having a pile on both 
sides. 



Witchiex Is a Resilient Lining 



Drap d*ete — ^Used in connection with materials 
of a light weight, designed to make up in summer 
apparel only. 

Drap de Lyon — ^Sometimes called the "Cloth of 
Lyons." Very rich quality of plain silk. 
Drap d 'or— The English term for this is "Cloth 
of Gold." Has a golden effect produced by an 
interweaving of tinsel. 

Drap de Soie — Also known as "Cloth of Silk." 
Both skein and piece dyed. A medium heavy 
weight, all silk and serge combination. 

Duchesse — ^A satin fabric having the back woven 
in flat twills, with a smooth surface. 

Duvetyn — ^A fabric with a soft velvety surface, 
made either of wool or silk. Originally made of 
spun' silk. "Duvet" is the French word for 
"down." 

Duvetyn de Soie — Made of spun silk and finished 
to resemble plush. 

Eolienne — ^A sheer silk and wool material. Also 

in silk and cotton. 

Epingle — ^This is a cross ribbed silk possessed of 

great wearing qualities. 

Eponge — Of a sponge-like texture used principally 

for dress purposes. 

Etamine — A sheer, open-weave of more or less 

transparent tissue. 

Faille — On the grosgrain order, but different in 

that it is soft and has flat ribs. Comes in plain 

colors. 

Failletine — A light and soft woven faille. 

Filet de Bruxelles — ^Woven from silk and cotton 

threads. Has a small sized six sided mesh. 

Fleur de Soie — In French this means "Flower of 

Silk." Has a satin de Lyon face and a back of 

satin. 

Floconne — Having small flakes, in white or color. 

Foulard — ^A soft light fabric both piece dyed and 
printed. Made in two-and-two and other weaves. 

Futako-ori — ^A fancy cotton material from Japan. 



Witchtex Is a Crushless Linmg 

A little silk is used in the weaving to give it the 
proper effect. 

Gabardine — A light-weight twilled fabric, either 
of worsted or of wool; originally taken up for rain- 
coats, but now used for simple dresses and tailored 
suits. The word at one time meant a long, loose 
garment. 

Gauze — Is thin and light and resembles voile. 
Made of hard twisted silk with doup weaving. 
Glace — Originally applied to a fabric having a 
glossy, lustrous surface. Now often applied to 
"shot" silks; that is, plain weaves wherein the warp 
and filling are of different colors. 
Gloria — A silk warp with worsted filling, plainly 
woven and very durable. Cotton filled Gloria 
silk is also to be had. Used in covering umbrellas. 
Gossamer — ^A soft silk gauze of cob-web texture. 
Used in veilings. 

Granite — ^A weave in which the yarns are so twisted 
as to create a pebbled surface. 
Grenadine — ^The French Grenadines are a gauze- 
like silk material of open-work design and with 
plain or figured patterns. It is also made of 
worsted and cotton threads. The American Grena- 
dines are coarse heavy materials in plain and 
figured patterns. 

Grisaille — This material has a gray effect produced 
by having warp and filling of contrasting black and 
white threads. 

Grosgrain — This is a silk fabric for dresses, having 
ribs that vary from fifty to seventy to inch. The 
ribbing is quite heavy and the material is plainly 
woven. 

Gros des Indes — ^This is the grosgrain of India. 
It is a silk dress fabric that has a rather broad 
diagonal weave. 

Gros de Londres — The grosgrain of London. It 
has heavy and fine ribs alternating and sometimes 
ribs of two different colors. Ribbing is of a cross 
design. 

Gros de Lyon — The grosgrain of Lyons. A coarse 
cross-ribbed material, skein dyed. 



Witchtex Is a Flexible Lining 



Gros de Paris — ^The grosgrain of Paris. For 
description of this see Gros de Londres. 
Gros de Tours — ^The grosgrain of Tours. The 
cords in this fabric are very pronounced. It is a 
rich heavy ribbed silk, and although soft is very 
firm. 

Gros de Venise — The grosgrain of Venice. 
Habutai — A plain, closely woven Japanese silk 
fabric. It has a heavy sizing in both warp and 
filling in the weaving, this is afterwards boiled out. 
Habutai silks are usually piece dyed or printed. 
Hammered — An uneven surface, as if the fabric 
had been beaten or pressed at irregular intervals. 
Henrietta Cloth — Has a silk warp and worsted 
filling and is dyed in the piece. It is a twilled 
fabric that has a great many uses. Generally 
woven on three harnesses. 

India Silk — These silks are made in India. They 
are plain weave of a light weight and made for dye- 
ing in the piece. 

Jacquard — Designs produced by the mechanism 
invented by Jacquard, whereby complicated figures 
are woven into the fabric. Such goods are known 
both as jacquards and brocades. See "Broche." 
Japan Silk — ^This name is commonly used in 
connection with Habutai, although it covers a 
great variety of silks that Japanese manufacture. 
Jouy — Printings in small, floral effects on silk or 
cotton, similar to Pompadour designs. Named 
after village near Versailles, famous from 1768 to 
1815 for its printed linens. 

Khaiki — A Japanese silk of plain weave, not so 
fine as Habutai. 

Khaki — ^A color resembling that of the ground. 
This word is derived from the Hindustani word 
for "earth." 

Kikai — A waste that comes from the reeling of 
raw silk. 

Ladies* Cloth — A flannel finished in broadcloth 
effect. 

Lansdowne — Has a silk warp and worsted filling. 
It is a twilled fabric of light weight. 



Witchtex Is Recommended fep Designers 

Levantine — Foulards are often woven in this 
fabric which is of a twilled weave. 

Liberty Satin — A soft piece dyed satin fabric 

with raw silk warp and single spun-silk filling. 

Originated by Liberty & Co. of Paris and London. 

Lisse— Used for ruchings and trimming purposes. 

It is a gauze-like chiffon that has a crepe twist. 

Louisine — This fabric is made by weaving two 

or more warped threads together in a manner 

which gives a minute basket weave effect. The 

surface is coarse and of a mealy appearance. 

Lustrine — Is a stout silk fabric with a very 

brilliant surface. 

Maline — A fine net fabric of silk that comes from 

the city of Malines or Mechlin. Similar to tulle 

in texture. 

Marcelline — A plain and closely woven, light, thin 

fabric. 

Marquisette — A sheer, plain-weave fabric of silk 

or cotton, having a mesh more open than that of 

voile. 

Matelasse — Having a raised pattern. 

Melange — The French word for "mixture." 

Melton — Stout, smooth woolen cloth, similar to 

broadcloth, but heavier. 

Mercerizing — A chemical process by which a 

silk-like luster is imparted to cotton yarns and 

fabrics. 

Messaline — A sheer, diaphanous closely woven 

satin that is wonderfully soft and brilliant. Derives 

its name from Messalina, who was the wife of the 

famous Roman Emperor, Claudius. 

Milanaise Cords — The warp ribs in this fabric 
are made of cotton cords or some other bulky 
yam. The special silk threads are doup woven 
in a manner that will just cover the cotton cords. 
Millerayes — The patterns are very narrow stripes 
as indicated by the meaning of the word which is 
"Thousand Stripes." 

Mohair — The fine, silky hair of the Angora goat. 
A lustrous fabric, made from this material. 



Witchtex Is a Distending Material 

Moire — ^The effect of being watered or clouded is 
produced by a combination of heat and unusual 
pressure. Fabrics that have a pronounced rib 
show the moire effect to best advantage. 

Moire Antique — ^This term is applied to rich 
qualities that show distinct markings of irregular 
nature similar to patterns used in ancient times. 

Moir6 h Pois — ^Shows a water ground with small 
round spot patterns. 

Moirg k Retour — ^This fabric is especially woven 
for moire patterns. It is folded so that only one 
half of the width is finished and then the other half 
is pressed so that the figure on the original half is 
reproduced on the other half. This insures the 
patterns being exactly alike throughout. 

Moire Franfaise — ^This is a striped moire in which 
patterns are produced by rollers of suitable width 
and spacing being used in the pressing. 

Moir^ Imperiale — There are no sharply defined 

lines in this pattern which is of an all-over watered 

effect. 

Moire Metallique — As its name implies this moire 

has a metallic luster. 

Moire Miroir — ^The making of this moire differs 
from the others in that two richly corded fabrics 
are woven together, one above the other. They 
moired without folding. This process gives a 
rich, velvety watered effect when the pieces are 
separated. 

Moire Nacree — An iridescent mother-of-pearl 
effect is obtained in these goods which are not folded 
in the middle. The watered lines are irregular 
and the cording is widely spaced. 
Moire Ocean — Derives its name from the undulat- 
ing wave-like effect of the moired design. 
Moire Poplin — ^Also known as "Watered Poplin." 
Wool and cotton filled. The wool filled goods have 
a softer effect than the cotton. 
Moire Renaissance — Designs are of the Renais- 
sance origin and beautifully moired. 
Moire Scintillante — ^From the French meaning 



Witchtex Holds Its Shape While Fabric Lasts 

scintillating, which gives an idea of its beautiful, 
glittering, watered pattern. 

Moire Soleil — The surface is brilliant and shiny, 
but the pattern is somewhat indistinct. 

Moire Supreme — This is the very highest quality 
of a watered satin. 

Moir6 Velours — An all-over moired pattern with 
soft and pleasing lines. 

Mousseline de Soie — In reality this is a silk 
muslin which derives its name from the city of 
Mossoul, located near the site of the ancient city 
of Nineveh. It is chiffon finished. 

Mummy Cloth — Derives its name from the 
similarity in appearance to the cloth in which the 
Egyptians wrapped their mummies. It is of a 
rough, granulated character. 
Natte — If these goods are not properly bound they 
have a tendency to slip. The patterns are small 
basket weave. 

Nun's Veiling — Originally a worsted fabric, but 
now also made in silk. It is a fine sheer material, 
principally used for veiling. As a rule it comes in 
black shades. 

Obiji — Of Japanese origin. It is used in making 
Japanese sashes. 

Ombre — Having graduated stripes in color which 
shade from light to dark, or vice versa. 
Organdy — A silk or cotton fabric light in weight 
and transparent as muslin. 
Ottoman — Ottoman fillings may be either silk, 
worsted or cotton. The ribbing is wide and flat 
and the fabric is heavy and plain. 
Paillette de Soie — The meaning of this term is 
"Spangles of Silk." The spangled effect is secured 
in the coloring and weaving or by the application 
of spangles. 

Panne — A light-weight velvet with "laid" or 
flattened pile. 

Parisienne — A silk and wool fabric. 
Pastel — Applied to tones of any color when ex- 
ceptionally pale. Chalk tones. 



Wiichlex Is the Most Economical Lining 

Peau de Gygne — A closely woven silk having a 
lustrous, but uneven, surface. 
Peau de Sole — Peau de Sole is somewhat grainy 
in appearance. It is a soft and satiny fabric made 
in both double and single face. It is of a good 
quality and has a dull luster. 
Peau de Peche — Literally peach skin, similar to 
duvetyn, which see. 

Peau de Souris — Literally mouse skin. Similar 
to peau de peche. 

Pekin Stripe — The stripes in this pattern are 
usually satin and grosgrain alternating, the stripes 
usually being contrasting. 

Pekine, or Pekin Stripes — A color design in 
stripes of equal width and with equal space between. 
Pique — A cotton fabric having wide or fine welts. 
Plain Weave — A weave in which every warped 
thread interlaces alternately with every filling 
thread. 

Plisse — Having an effect of fine folds or plaits. 
Plumetis — A sheer cotton fabric ornamented with 
tufts at intervals. 

Plush — ^The pile in plush is longer than that in 
velvet and is usually more than an eighth of an 
inch in length. The pile is principally of silk, 
worsted or mohair. Sealskin plush is obtained by 
imitating the real sealskin by the use of silk in 
the pile. 

Plush, Hatters' — Hatters' plush is used in making 
men's high hats. It is a silk plush of special con- 
struction. 

Pointille — Having a design in small dots. 
Pompadour — Small floral designs. 
Pongee — Of Eastern origin, plain and canvas-like 
in appearance. It is usually a tussah or some dark 
colored silk boiled off or dyed in the piece. 
Poplin — A fabric having a silk warp and a wool 
weft, with a corded surface. Goods in which a 
similar effect is produced, but made in all silk, all 
wool or cotton are also called "poplins." 
Poplinette — An extremely light weight poplin. 



Witchtex Has Bod^ Without Weight 

Poult de Soie — A soft and thick satin fabric very 
rich in appearance. 

Radzimir — A broken twill effect made on eight 
harnesses. 

Ramie — A plant of Chinese and East Indian 
origin, from which a strong, lustrous fiber is ob- 
tained. 

Ratine — A fabric with surface resembling that of 
chinchilla cloth, but having smaller tufts with 
wider spacings between. Also applied to fabrics 
on the terry order. 
Raye — Striped. 

Rep — A fabric having a crosswise corded weave. 
Reps, Filling — Filling reps are ribbed lengthwise, 
only the fillings that make the ribs being seen. 
Reps, Warp — Warped reps are ribbed crosswise, 
so that only the warp which makes the ribs is seen. 
Rhadame — This fabric is of a very good quality, 
and has a rather indefinite twill. It is made on 
twelve shafts. 

Rice Cloth — A cotton fabric of sheer construction 
in which small nubs or knots appear at intervals. 
Roman Stripes — Usually has a cotton warp, but 
none of the warp shows. Patterns are brilliant 
cross stripes of contrasting colors and silk filling 
woven so as to make a reversible cloth. 
Royale — A plain ribbed fabric with ribs broken at 
frequent intervals. 

Samite — In old English a silk stuff velvet or satin. 
Sarcenet — Has its origin in a material made by 
the Saracene. It is a firm thin woven silk that 
resembles taffeta. 

Satin — A foundation or basic weave, in which the 
filling is arranged to bind the warp as seldom as 
possible and is so spaced that, on the face of the 
fabric, practically nothing shows but the warp, thus 
making an extremely smooth and lustrous face. 
Satin Charmeuse — Usually made with spun silk 
filling. It is a piece dyed satin fabric that has a 
hard twisted organzine warp. 
Satin, Cotton-back — Cotton back satin is most 



IVitchiex Wont Break Through Thin Fabrics 

commonly used for lining purposes. Has a raw 
silk warp and cotton filling. It is pieced dyed. 

Satin Crepe — Gets its name from a rich satin 
warp and crepe twist filling. It is very hard to 
dye perfectly. 

Satin de Bruges — ^A satin of Bruges. A silk and 
wool fabric with a satiny surface especially designed 
for upholstery purposes. 

Satin de Chine— The satin of China. Satin de 
Chine has a crepe-like finish and is possessed of 
soft draping qualities. 

Satin de Lyon— The satin of Lyons. This is a 
satiny cloth woven in a three harness twill. It is 
of firm construction and skein dyed. 

Satin, Double-faced — ^Has both back and face 
warp and is reversible. 

Satin Duchesse — An all-silk satin of a very rich 
quality. Woven on eight or twelve harnesses. 

Satin Faconne — In French the meaning is 

"wrought or figured" satin. Distinguished by 

handsome Jacquard figured patterns on satin 

groimds. 

Satin Feutre — A satin fabric with single spun silk 

yarn filling. Has a furry back, is woven on eight 

shafts and piece dyed. 

Satin Luxor — ^A rich satin that is also known as a 

double-faced peau de soie. Has a rich and subdued 

luster. 

Satin Merveilleux — The warp and filling are 

usually of contrasting color. Has a light and 

lustrous twill. 

Satin Taffeta — ^As its name implies, it is woven 

with satin on one side and taffeta on the other. 

Satin Ture — A satin fabric with a fine chevron 

cross-over pattern. 

Serge — Although serge is now usually made of 

worsted thread, it was originally a twilled silk 

fabric. 

Serge Moiree — A plain or striped ribbed fabric 

with spun silk warp and glazed cotton filling. Is 

moired finished. 



Witchlex Is a Dressmaker s Favorite 

Shantung— Originated in the Chinese providence 
of that name. Ecru colored px)ngee or rough plain 
fabrics of Tussah silk. 

Shoe-Top Silk— Includes heavy twilled and satin 
fabrics to be used in shoemaking. Usually they 
have figured patterns and a cotton filling. 
Sicilienne — A worsted filled fabric with a corded 
silk warp. Sicilienne is also a light chiffon fabric, 
or a mohair of heavy weight. 
Surah Silk — A twilled silk generally woven two- 
and-two. The name is from "Surat" in India. 
Tabbinet — A fabric of silk and wool like a poplin. 
Used principally for upholstery work. 
Tabbis — ^The name "Tabby" is often used to denote 
a plain weave. It is an old term for watered or 
figured silk. Is rich in appearance. 
Taffeta — Ranges from 70 to 120 picks per inch, 
with an average of 90 to 100. These silks are 
skeined dyed, plainly woven and have a fine 
crossed-ribbed appearance. For dress purposes. 

Tafifetaline — ^This is a piece dyed fabric with a 
plain weave. Has spun silk filling and organzine 
warp. An imitation of taffeta. 

TafEetas Chameleon — A multi-colored taffeta, 
with a changeable iridescent effect. Generally 
made with two colors in the filling and a third 
color in the warp. 

Taffeta Chiffon — A soft and lustrous taffeta silk. 
Much heat and pressure is used in securing the soft 
draping qualities of this fabric. 
Taffetas Fagonne — These taffetas are dis- 
tinguished from others by beautiful Jacquard 
patterns. 

Taffetas Glace — A "shot" effect is produced in 

these taffetas with contrasting colors in warp and 

filling. The name means "frosted taffeta." 

Taffetas Lustre — ^A stout taffeta silk with a 

brilliant finish. 

Taffetas Uni — Applied to all plain taffeta silks. 

"Uni" is French for plain or smooth. 

Terry — A weave in looped effect. Another name 



Witchtex Is for BilloTD^ Flounces 

for eponge and some forms of ratine. A velvet in 
which the loops have not been cut. 

Tie Silks — These are used in making men's neck- 
wear. A large variety in both plain and fancy 
patterns. 

Tricot Silk — ^This fabric is also sometimes made 

in wool. Has a very narrow inconspicuous strip, 

resembling a knitted effect. 

Tricotine — A material of slightly modified tricot 

characteristics. 

Tulle — ^A plain, fine silk net. Practically the same 

as maline. 

Tussah — The wild silk from which shantung and 

pongee are made. Applied to these fabrics when 

heavy and coarsely woven. 

Twill — Applied to weaves showing a diagonal 

effect. Twill is one of the three basic weaves and 

is made in almost countless varieties. 

Umbrella Silk — Used for covering umbrellas. 

Have specially woven selvages and a dye suited to 

the purpose. Both plain and twilled. 

Uni Silk — ^A term used in describing plain or 

smoothly woven weaves. 

Usuginu — ^A thin Habutai. 

Velour — In French "velours" (velvet). Applied 

to certain fabrics having a velvety or plush finish. 

Velour de laine, or wool velour, is a wool fabric 

with a plush-like surface. 

Velour du Nord — ^A silk velvet of weight half way 

between ordinary erect pile velvet and plush. 

Velours Chiffon — ^A light, soft and pliable velvet 

known in English as chiffon velvet. 

Velours Embosse — Means embossed or stamped 

velvet. The patterns in this fabric are finished in 

relief sometimes secured in the weaving. They 

are also produced by printing with embossed 

rollers. 

Velours En vers Satin — ^A reverse satin velvet 

with satin back and velvet face. 

Velours Epingle — A pinned velvet which is similar 

to wire velvet. 



Witchtex Is for Bouffant Modes 



Velours Panne— A faced velvet having a peculiar 
luster obtained by finishing with a hot pressing or 
ironing effect. 

Velours Paon — Derives its name from the heavily 
pressed finish which is known as "paon." In 
French this means "peacock velvet." 
Velours Russe — A Russian velvet. 
Velvet — These fabrics are made with a plain back 
and short, soft, thick pile face, which if longer than 
an eighth of an inch is called plush. A great deal 
of spun silk is used in velvets although they may be 
all silk or all cotton, or only have a silk face. 
Velvet, Chenille — Has a double-faced velvet 
effect obtained by the chenille filling. 
Velvet, Gut — ^A velvet with a face filling effect 
obtained by cutting rows of loops with a knife, to 
produce the pile. Some fabrics have velvet figures 
made in this way. 

Velvet, Mirror — This velvet has the pile ironed 
down. 

Velvet, Uncut — Made the same as the cut velvet, 
but without the looped pile being cut. 

Velvet, Wire — This velvet has regular rows of 
loops across it which are cut to form the pile. The 
regularity is obtained by running a series of wires 
under the pile warp while weaving and then with- 
drawing them before cutting. 
Velveteen — A cotton velvet that has both cotton 
pile and cotton back. 

Venetian — A wool fabric, closely woven, in a 
fine twill. 

Venetian Velvet — An organzine velvet, yarn dyed. 
Ves tings— These materials are heavy, often cotton 
mixed and made in fancy patterns. Used for mak- 
ing vests. 

Vigogne — The French form of the word "vicuna;" 
appli^ to a soft woolen dress material. 
Vigoureux — A worsted material, printed in the 
warp so as to produce a melange, or mixture, 
effect in coloring. 
Voile — A sheer, semi-transparent, plain-weave 



Witchiex Is for All Fashionable Silhouettes 



Table of Proportionate Si 



CHILDREN 1 


• Sizes 


4 


6 


8 


10 


12 


14 


Bust 


27^ 


28^ 


291 


301 


32 


33] 


Waist 


251 


26§ 


27| 


2&h 


36 


3ll 


Hips 


30 


31 


32 


33 


34^ 


36 
6 

Ic 

111 
i(i 

2(| 


Back Depth 


5 


5i 


51 


51 


6i 


Back Waist Length 


11 


111 


121 


12f 


131 


Half Back— Width 


5 


5i 


5^ 


5f 


6 


Blade 


8f 


81 


81 


91 


91 


Front Depth 


91 


10 


m 


lOf 


11 


Sleeve Length 


10 


m 


m 


14i 


15i 


Top of Dart 












Front Waist Length 


15 


16 


17 


18 


19 


Neck 


11 


lU 


m 


111 


12 


Front Skirt Length 












Side Skh-t Length 














t Back Skh-t Length 


24 


26 


28 


33 


38 


At 



•Sizes are for Retail Store Buyers' use. Garment Tail* 
tThis measurement is taken from neck down on Chil 







Witchtex 


Has More 


Than 


20 


Uses 




fes for Dressmakers' Use 


rUNIORS 1 


MISSES 


LADIES 


15 


17 


19 


14 


16 


18 


20 


34 


36 


38 


40 


42 


44 


46 


134 


35^ 


37 


35 


36^ 


38 


391 


37 


39 


41 


43 


45 


47 


49 


( 25 

■ 


26 


27 


24 


25 


26 


27 


241 


26^ 


28^ 


30^ 


32i 


34i 


36^ 


;i37 


38i 


40 


35 


36^ 


38 


39^ 


371 


39^ 


4U 


43^ 


45^ 


47^ 


491 


1 eh 


61 


6f 


6f 


6f 


6f 


61 


61 


7 


7i 


71 


7f 


7h 


71 


'i 13^ 


13^ 


13^ 


14 


14 


14 


14 


m 


15 


15 


15 


15i 


15^ 


15^ 


^i 61 


61 


61 


6^ 


6f 


61 


7 


61 


7 


7i 


7i 


7f 


7h 


71 


i 9i 


9f 


10 


9f 


10 


m 


10^ 


10 


m 


11 


m 


12 


12i 


13 


'ill! 


111 


111 


m 


111 


m 


m 


12i 


I2h 


13 


m 


14 


14i 


m 


'.fl6t 


171 


18 


m 


17^ 


m 


18 


171 


18 


181 


m 


181 


18i 


18i 


i:fl4 


141 


14^ 


14 


14i 


m 


14^ 


14 


m 


15 


I5i 


16 


16i 


m 


^m 


20 


20i 


20i 


21 


211 


2U 


211 


22 

1 


22i 


23 


23^ 


24 


24h 


Jim 


12f 


13 


12 


12^ 


13 


13^ 


131 


14 


141 


15 


15^ 


16 


m 


[ 35 


36 


37 


36 


37 


38 


39 


41 


41 


41 


41 


41 


41 


41 


1135^ 


36i 


37^ 


36^ 


37^ 


38^ 


39^ 


42 


42 


42 


42 


42 


42 


42 


15 36 


37 


38 


37 


38 


39 


40 


42^ 


42^ 


42^ 


42^ 


42^ 


42i 


42i 


frind Dressmakers take Bust measurements as a guide. 


1)4*8 Ga 


rme 


ntsc 


)nly 























Witchtex Is a Distending Interlining 

fabric of silk, wool or cotton — plain, or ornamented 

with stripes or figures. 

Warp Print— See "Chine." 

Welt — A fabric having thick, raised cords at close 

intervals, as in the case of Bedford cords and 

piques. In cotton goods, when the cords run 

lengthwise of the piece, the fabric is known as a 

"warp welt." Sometimes called "wale." 

Whipcord — ^A fabric with pronounced ribs or cords 

diagonally woven. 

Worsted — ^A yarn or thread spun from long-staple 

wool that has been combed, and fabrics made 

therefrom. 

Z/ibeline — ^A dress or cloaking material having a 
hairy surface. 



There are so many different uses for 
Witchtex — the Modern Crinoline— that we 
have issued a booklet 



4i 



How To Use Witchtex" 



It is illustrated and shows more than twenty 
of the various uses. 

Witchtex is needed wherever there is a flare, 
distension or bouffant feature. It is suitable for all 
kinds of wearing apparel and can also be used to 
advantage in millinery, fancy work, etc., 

This Booklet is Free 

If you can't get a copy at your favorite store's 
lining counter, write, mentioning the store's 
name to 

J. W. GODDARD & SONS 

(Incorporated) 

Sole Selling Agents for Witchtex and Distributors of 
Goddard "Whiteweaves" and Goddard Linings 

92-94-96 Bleecker Street, .- - New York 



Witchtex Is Extremely Light 



Lace Terms Defined 

A List Giving the Meaning of the Terms in 

Everyday Use at Lace and Embroidery 

Counters 

Alengon (Point d') — Fine needle-point lace with 

the ground of double-twist thread in a semi-net 

effect. Usually worked with horsehair on the 

edges to give firmness to the cordonnet. 

AUover — All wide laces in which the pattern does 

not comprise entire widths, as in fiouncings. 

Angleterre (Point d')^ — Fine Brussels pillow lace, 

distinguished by a rib of raised and plaited threads 

worked in the lace. 

Antique — Hand-made pillow lace of heavy linen 

thread in a large, open, rectangular knotted mesh. 

Antwerp — Bobbin lace, resembling early Alengon. 

Shows a "pot" — that is, a vase or basket effect — • 

in the design. 

Applique — Any lace in which the body and design 

are made separate. 

Arabian or Arabe (Point d') — Coarse bobbin 

lace made in Belgium and France as well as Arabia. 

Shows a large, bold pattern cable-edged, and is 

almost invariably in a deep ecru tone. 

Argentine — Very similar to Alengon, the mesh 

being a trifle larger. 

Arras — ^Very strong, white, bobbin lace, somewhat 

resembling Mechlin. Distinguished by its light, 

single-thread ground. 

Aurillac — A bobbin lace which somewhat resembles 

Angleterre. 

Ave Maria — A narrow edging. 

Baby Lace — Light and simple edging made in 

England. 

Battenberg — Same as Renaissance. 

Bayeux — Bobbin lace, usually imitation of Spanish 

point. Also a black, rich lace, made in large 

pieces, for shawls, etc. 

Binche — Fine pillow lace, without cordonnet. 

Ground resembles a spider web with small dots. 



Witchiex Is Eas^ to Seiv 



Bisette — Coarse, narrow French peasant lace in 
simple designs. Name often applied to cheap 
bordering laces. 

Blonde — Originally a bobbin lace made of un- 
bleached silk, though now shown in black, white, 
and colors. Made with two different sizes of thread ; 
fine thread for ground, coarse for the design. 
Usually takes some floral form. 

Bobbinet or Bobbin Lace — Imitation of pillow 
lace. Made in England and France. 

Bobbin Bone Point Lace — Applied to laces hav- 
ing no regular ground or mesh, such as Renaissance*. 

Bourdon — ^A machine lace made of both silk and 
cotton. Shows scroll-like patterns cable-edged on 
a regular mesh. 

Bretonne — Cheap narrow edging. 
Brides — Slender threads connecting different parts 
of pattern. 

Bride Lace — Laces with the pattern connected 
with brides. Same as bone point lace. 
Brussels Net — Plain net made originally in Brus- 
sels, but now produced in all lace manufacturing 
countries. 

Brussels Pillow — Fine pillow lace with the patterns 
joined together by little loops on their edges. 
Brussels Point — Shows an open pattern, made 
partly in open, partly in closed stitch, giving 
appearance of shading. 

Carrickmacross — ^Tiny Irish cambric drawnwork 
applique on net. 

Cartisane — Guipure or passementerie made with 
thin silk or gilt-covered strips of parchment. 
Chantilly — Pillow lace very similar to blonde. 
Made in both silk and cotton and usually seen in 
black. 

Cluny^ — Coarse-thread bobbin lace, made in both 
linen and cotton. Shows a close-stitch pattern 
darned on an open ground. 
Craponne — Cheap, stout thread furniture guipure. 
Darned Lace — Comprehensive term taking in all 
net effects with the pattern applied in needlework. 



Witchtex Presses Perfectly 



Dieppe — A fine needle-point lace resembling 
Valenciennes. 

Duchesse — Pillow lace with fine net ground with 
the patterns in raised work, volants and the like. 
Dutch Lace — Practically a coarse Val. 
English Point — See Angleterre. 

Escurial — Heavy silk lace made in imitation of 
Rose point. Patterns outlined with cable edge. 

Esprit (Point d') — Dotted bobbinet with the 

dots either singly or in clusters. 

Fillet Lace — Any lace made with a square mesh 

net. 

Flemish Point — Needle-point lace made in 

Flanders. 

Footing — Simple insertion of Brussels net from 
one to three inches in width. 

Gaze (Point de) — Flemish point lace resembling 
point d'Alengon, though much softer, being with- 
out horsehair. 

Gene (Point de) — Openwork embroidery, made 
on a wool ground which is afterward eaten away 
by acid. 

Genoa — Heavy lace made of aloe fiber. Another 
name for macrame. 
Gimp — See "Guipure." 

Grammont — White pillow lace used for shawls 
and the like. Black silk lace nearly resembling 
blonde. 

Guipure — Little fancy trimming of wire cord 
whipped round with silk or cotton threads, and the 
pattern stitched together. 

Guipure d'Art — Linen net upon which raised-on- 
intersecting patterns are worked. 
Guipure de Flandre — Pillow made separate, 
flower connected by bars and brides. 
Hand Embroidery — Heavy point lace, usually 
of Plauen manufacture, with fancy floral or other 
figures embroidered on the design. 

Honiton — English bobbin lace, famed for the 
beauty of its designs. Sprays sometimes made 



Witchtex Follorvs the Cloth 



separately, and then worked on a net — Honiton 
applique. 

Honiton Guipure — Large flower pattern lace 
on very open ground, the sprays held together with 
brides or bars. 

Honiton Braid — ^Narrow machine-made braid of 
ornamental oval figures connected by narrow bars. 
Imitation Lace — ^Term used to designate any 
machine-made lace as against hand-made. 
Insertion — ^Any narrow lace with a plain edge on 
either side that admits of its being inserted in. a 
fabric. 

Irish Crochet — Heavy hand-made lace, remark- 
able for the beauty and distinctness of its patterns 
and the startling whiteness of the linen thread used 
in its manufacture. 

Irish Point — Hybrid combination of applique, 
cutwork and embroidery on net with, in the higher 
grades, elaborate needle stitching. 
Knotted Lace — ^Frequently referred to as knotting. 
Fancy weave of twisted and knotted threads in 
close imitation of some old hand laces. 
Lille — ^A Belgian lace which somewhat resembles 
Mechlin. Shows a very clear, light grotmd, and is 
the most beautiful of all simple thread laces. 
Limerick Lace — A form of embroidery on net or 
muslin. 

Luxeuil — Laces of a stout, heavy nature. 
Macram^ — Knotted hand-made lace, made of a 
very heavy cord. Shown in geometrical designs 
principally. Very popular in deep ecru. 
Maline — Fine silk net. Sometimes also applied 
to Mechlin lace with a diamond mesh. 
Maltese — Coarse machine-made cotton lace, 
resembling torchon. Has no regular ground, 
patterns being usually connected with heavy stitch- 
work. 

Mechlin — Light pillow lace with the pattern out- 
lined by a fine but very distinct thread or cord. 
Real Mechlin generally has the ground pattern 
woven together, the latter running largely to 
flowers, buds, etc. 



Witchiex Will Not Crease 



Medici — Special kind of torchon edging, with one 
edge scalloped. 

Melange — Hand-made silk pillow lace, showing 
a combination of conventional Chantilly with 
Spanish designs. 

Mexican Drawn work — Little round medallions 
either singly or in strips, the threads drawn to 
form a cart-wheel. Mexican and Teneriffe drawn- 
work practically the same. Machine imitations 
made in Nottingham, Calais and St. Gall. 

Mignonette — Light bobbin lace, made in narrow 
stripes. Resembles tulle. 

Miracourt — Sprig effects of bobbin lace applied 
on net ground. 

Nanduly — South American fiber lace, made by 
needle in small squares, which are afterward joined 
together. 

Needle-Point Lace — See "Point Lace." 
Normandy Lace — See "Valenciennes." 
Nottingham — General term, including all the 
machine-made laces turned out in that great 
lace-producing center of England. 
Oriental Lace — Really an embroidery, being pro- 
duced on the schiffli machine, the pattern being 
then either cut or eaten out. Also applied to 
point d'Arabe and certain filet effects. 
Oyah Lace — A crocheted guipure shown in ornate 
patterns. 

Picots — Infinitesimal loops or brides and other 
strands. 

Pillow Lace (Bobbin Lace) — Made on a pillow 
with bobbins and pins. Machine-made imitations 
retain the name. 

Plauen — Applied to all laces emanating from that 
section and including imitations of nearly all point 
laces. Machine embroidered on a wool ground, this 
being afterward dissolved in acid and the cotton or 
silk design left intact. 

Point Lace — Lace made by hand with needle and 
single thread. Needle point the same. Point 
d'Alengon, point de^Venise, etc., are all variations 



IVitchtex Can Be Used in Coats 

of point lace although they have individual char- 1 

acteristics. 

Point Plat — Point lace without raised design. 

Point Kant — Flemish pillow lace, with a net 

ground and the design running largely to "pot" i 

effects — pot lace. 

Renaissance — ^Modern lace, made of narrow tape | 

or braid formed into patterns, held together by 

brides, the brides forming subsidiary designs. 

Battenberg the same thing. 

Repouse— Applied to the design, being a pattern 
that has the effect of being stamped in. 

Rose Point — ^See Venise. 

Seaming Lace — Narrow, openwork insertion. 

Seville — ^Variety of torchon. 

Spanish Lace— Comprehensive term. Convent- 
made, needle-point lace. Cut drawnwork effects, 
also convent-made. Needle-point lace in large 
squares. Black silk lace in floral designs. 
Spanish Point — ^Ancient variety of gold, silver 
and silk passementeries. 

Swiss Lace — Swiss-embroidered net in imitation of 
Brussels. 

Tambour — Variety of Limerick. 
Tape Lace — Hand-made needle lace, similar to 
Renaissance. 

Thread Lace — Made of linen thread, as dis- 
tinguished from cotton and silk laces. 
Torchon — Coarse, open bobbin lace of stout but 
loosely twisted thread in very simple patterns. 
Much seen in imitations, usually in narrow widths. 
Van Dyke Points — Applied to laces with a border 
made in points 

Valenciennes — Commonly called Val. Bobbin 
lace, seen mostly in cheap insertions in the form of 
narrow edgings. 

Venetian Point — Point de Venise. Needle-point 
lace in floral pattern, with the designs very close 
together and connected by brides ornamented with 
picots. 



Wiichtex Can Be Used in Dresses 

Venise— A heavy lace in floral patterns with de- 
signs close together and the "brides," or connecting 
lines, ornamented with picots. 
Youghal — Needle-point lace of coarse thread, 
made exclusively in Ireland. 
Ypres— Bobbin lace, somewhat coarser than Val. 



Dressmakers' Terms 

Accordion Plaiting — One plait laid on another by 
machinery. They are steamed and dried so as to 
permanently retain this position. 
A jour — All open effects, sometimes produced by 
a veining joining two parts together by hemstitch- 
ing. 

Antique — A word used to designate a style, 
material or fashion that has been used in ancient 
times, usually antedating the middle ages. 
Applique — Lace or embroidery patterns applied 
to a material. It may be a band, or separate 
design, as of leaves, figures, etc. 
Arabesque — ^A flat effect or design which may be 
made with cords, stitchery, or applied pieces out- 
lined, /. €. after the Arabian style of decoration. 
Bag Seam — A seam stitched on the right side and 
then on the wrong, hiding the raw edges. 
Buerre — A name given to materials or lac€ having 
a yellow color resembling butter. 
Bolero — A Spanish jacket; a small sleeveless jacket 
worn over a loose blouse. 

Border — Any trimming put on an edge or above 
it and used as a finish to a garment. 
Bouffant — Used to express a very full or puffy 
effect — as bouffant sleeves. 

Bouillonn^ — A narrow puffing used for fancy 
trimming, which is sometimes corded. It is often 
made of chiffon or soft satin. 
Chameleon — A changeable effect obtained by 
weaving two or three colors together. 
Chine — Effects obtained by printing the warp 
before weaving and making the filling of a plain 
color. 



Witchtex Can Be Used in Skirts 

Ghoux — A rosette of any soft material which will 

look like a cabbage. 

Collet — A small cape or large collar. 

Guirasse — A perfectly plain tight-fitting waist. 

Dresden Effects — Warp-printed flowers and figures 
like those used on Dresden china. 

Drop Skirt — ^A lining skirt intended for a certain 
dress. It is often hung or attached to the outer 
skirt. 

Dutch Neck — A square or round neck cut about 
two inches below the throat. 
Eton — A short jacket or coat reaching to the waist 
line and dipping slightly to a point at the center 
back. This style is copied after that worn at the 
Eton School, England. 

Fagoting — An embroidery stitch which fills the 
space between two edges, holding them together. 
It differs from the cat or herringbone stitch in that 
it is worked through the edges, and not fiat on them. 
Featherstitching — Very much like bias or cord 
stitchery used in embroidery and with very good 
effect in some styles in dressmaking. 
Fichu — A draped scarf or cape having long ends 
which fall from a knot at the breast. 
French Gathers — Made of one long stitch on the 
outside and one short stitch underneath and alter- 
nating. 

French Knot — An embroidery stitch in which from 
four to eight or nine twists are made on the needle. 
The needle is pushed back through the same open- 
ing to the wrong side while the loops are held on the 
right side. 

Frogs — Ornaments made of braid in a fancy 
pattern, having a loop which fastens on the opposite 
button or olive. There are always a pair of these 
ornaments used for each fastening. 
Galloon or Passementerie — ^Trimming made of 
beads, spangles, or silk, into bands and fancy 
designs. 

Gaufre — ^An effect seen in silk when the material 
is pressed into shapes or patterns. 



Wiichtex Can Be Used in Furs 

Glace — A shiny surface, applied to gloves and silk 
materials. 

Harlequin — Made of three or more separate colors. 
Jabot — A trimming, usually of lace or chiffon, 
gathered full and allowed to fall in cascades or shells. 
J upon — A short petticoat applied to double or 
triple skirts. The upper skirt is the jupon. 

Lance — Shot effect, small dots — also called petite 

pois. 

Melange — Mixtures or color applied in weaving; 

also mixtures of cotton warp and wool weft. 

Mercerize — A chemical process of rendering cotton 

threads lustrous. The thread is shortened and 

hardened, producing a silky effect. 

Moire — A watered effect like spreading waves over 
a silk, cotton or woolen material. 

Motif — A portion of a design — as a leaf from a 

spray of flowers. 

Plastron — A full or draped vest for a waist. 

Panel — A piece of material placed either in the 

front or sides of a skirt, sometimes outlined by rows 

of trimming, giving the appearance of an inlay. 

Picot — A small loop used as an ornamental edging 

on ribbons or lace. 

Piping — A bias fold or cord put on the edge of a 

band or garment as a finishing. 

Plait — A trimming made by folding the material 

over on itself. 

Box Plait — A fold turned toward either side. 

Double Box Plait — Box plaits having two 

folds. 

Kilt Plaits — Large single folds turned one way. 

Knife Plaits — Narrow folds turned to one side. 

Triple Box Plaits— Box plaits having three 

folds. 
Plisse— Plaited. 

Polonaise — A waist and overskirt combined in one 
garment. It is taken from the Polish national 
costume. 



Witchtex Can Be Used in MilUmr^ 

Quilling — ^A narrow-plaited effect; a rose quilling 
is a very full triple box plaiting stitched through the 
center, having the effect of a row of full-blown 



Shirr — Two or more rows of gathers having a 
space between. 

Smocking — ^Accordion plaiting caught together 
alternately in rows, making an elastic fabric. 
Watteau Plait — A box plait down the center of 
the back of a Princess gown which is laid from the 
neck to the waist line and then hangs freely to the 
bottom of the skirt. Taken from Louis XV peridd 
style of dress. 



Every Modish Woman 
Needs Witchtex 




Witchtex is crinoline modernized — with 
all its faults removed. 

With this new material any woman who sews can 
create the puffs, distensions, flares and ripples 
demanded by various styles. 

Witchtex is easy to use, assumes any desired form 
and holds it as long as the material lasts. 

Witchtex has been proven the most practical and 
satisfactory material for all flaring, distending and 
bouffant effects. 

36 Inches Wide 
Sold in All Good Lining Departments 



Witchtex Can Be Used in Petticoats 



Miscellaneous Hints for 
the Dressmaker 

Armholes — Overcast or bind armholes with a 
bias strip of soft lining silk or muslin. 
Buttonholes — Buttonhole sizes are determined by 
the diameter of the button. 

Sewing in Sleeves — When sewing in a sleeve, sew 
from the inside of the sleeve. That is, hold the 
sleeve toward you, for in this way the sleeve is 
eased into the waist. When the sleeve is sewn in 
try to keep the shoulder and under-arm seams from 
being tightened by the armhole stitching, as this 
often affects the fit of the waist. 
Front Seams of Sleeves — ^The front seam of a 
sleeve is placed about two or two and one-half 
inches from the under-arm seam of the waist. 
Another reliable guide often used is to fold the arm- 
hole from an inch back of the shoulder seam on 
a perfect bias. The point reached on the front 
of the waist is the guidi for the front seam of the 
sleeve. 

Inside Seams of Sleeves — Bind or overcast the 
inside seams of a sleeve to correspond to the finish 
of the seams of the waist. Never leave them raw. 
Binding for Waist Seams — Binding for waist 
seams is easier to sew on evenly if the seam binding 
is creased in the center before it is placed on the 
edge of the seam. Stitches should be always short 
on the right side and longer on the under side of 
the seam. 

Covering Raw Edges — In place of bands of silk 
to cover raw edges, bone casing makes a nice finish 
and is frequently used. Seam binding serves the 
purpose where there is no strain or wear brought to 
bear on it. 

Shields and Dress Protectors — Shields or dress 
protectors should be placed in the armhole so that 
they fit the round at the front armscye. They should 
never be put in tightly, and four tackings, one at 
each end of the shield, one on the under-arm seam, 
and one on the seam of the sleeve, are quit 3 enough. 



Witchiex Is for Flaring Peplums 

The tacking should be done through the little tape 
which finishes the shield. If the rubber is punc- 
tured the perspiration will come through and possi- 
bly ruin the waist; small safety pins are sometimes 
used to hold the shield in place. 
Sewing on Collars — When sewing on a collar to 
a waist do not have any fullness across the back 
of the waist unless the waist is designed for it. If 
the neck has stretched hold it in to the collar from 
the front to a little in front of the shoulder seam. 
Shoulder Seams — Shoulder seams should turn 
toward the front to avoid any tightening which 
the reverse would make. 

Cutting Material — It is always advisable to 
draw a thread before cutting fine materials, such 
as chiffon, etc. If this is not done the material 
has a tendency to creep away. The same method 
should also be followed in cutting lawn and fine 
white goods. In fact, it is always advisable to 
draw the thread whenever possible. 
Matching Patterns — Plaids or stripes should 
always be very carefully matched, especially when 
bias seams are made. Care should be taken to see 
that every line or check matches at every stage of 
the making. 

Shrinking Wash Materials — Washable materials 
should always be shrunken before being made up, 
but this does not mean that they need to be washed. 
Simply place them in a tub of water until they are 
thoroughly wet. Do not wring them out, but hang 
on a line by the selvage and allow them to drip. 
A little salt in the water will set the colors. Such 
shades as pink, blue, lavender and green should be 
hung in the shade when put out to dry, as the sun 
fades them quickly. 

Back Fastening — Dresses buttoned or hooked 
in the back should be fastened from right to left. 

♦'HOW TO USE WITCHTEX" 

An illustrated booklet showing more than twenty ways in 
which you can use Witchex. 

This Booklet is FREE 

At any Good Lining Counter, or by Writing 

J. W. GODDARD & SONS, Inc. 

Sole Selling Agents for Witchtex and Distributors of Goddard 

"Whiteweaves" and Goddard Linings 

92-94-96 Bleecker St., New York 



Witchtex Is Fine for Hats for Sport IV ear 

How to Take Measure- 
ments for Patterns 

There are several different makes of patterns on 
the market, each of which have their own points of 
excellence. The following few simple rules will 
enable you to order patterns of correct size with 
accuracy. 

If pattern for a skirt is wanted and the hips are 
larger in proportion than the waist, order by the 
hip measurement, and fit in the waist to the required 
size. 

The waist measure is determined by drawing the 
tape straight around the waist. 

To find the correct bust measure, pass the tape 
around the body and over the fullest part of the 
bust. The tape should usually be about an inch 
below the armhole and should have a slight upward 
slope at the center-back. Draw the tape comfort- 
ably tight. 

The length of waist is found by drawing the tape 
at center-back from neck to waistline and under the 
arm to waistline. Be sure the tape is in a perfectly 
straight line. 

The sleeve measure should be taken around the 
largest part of the upper arm which is usually about 
three inches below the armhole. 

To find the correct hip measure pass the tape 
arovmd the hips about six inches below the waist 
line. 

The sleeve length can be more accurately deter- 
mined if the tape is tied to the wrist and then 
adjusted on a straight line at both the back and 
the front of the arm. 

Pattern measurements for children's, girls' and 
misses' garments are determined in the same man- 
ner as those for women, although it is advisable 
to give the age as well as the bust and waist 
measurements, which vary in children and girls of 
the same age. 



Witchtex Can Be Used in Plaits 

Here's the answer to your question of 

"What is Witchtex?" 

Witchtex is a new lining, interlining and foun- 
dation material used and recommended by 
the leading designers and dressmakers. 



is for those parts of garments requiring bouflfant, distended 
flaring and like effects for their beauty. Witchtex is full 36 
inches wide, is easy to sew and has plenty of body without 
weight. It is of a peculiar texture that will not crush or crease 
and which will hold its form as long as the fabric lasts. 

May be obtained at all good lining counters or by writing 
J. W. Goddard & Sons. 



Madame Bertha, One of New York's Leading 
Exclusive Dressmakers, Says: 

"I thought you would be glad to know of my experi- 
ence with Witchtex. 

"I have used Witchtex with great success in many of 
the garments I have created for my exclusive customers 
during the last two months. 

"I notice you are calling Witchtex the 'Modern Crino- 
line.* This strikes me as being a very good description, as 
Witchtex enables me to secure the soft bouffancy of current 
style easily and perfectly. 

"I frankly state that I am very pleased with Witchtex, 
and predict a big sale for it, because of its many uses for 
every maker of high class garments." 



J. W. GODDARD & SONS 

(Incorporated) 

Sole Selling Agents for Witchtex and Distributors 
of Goddard "Whiteweaves" and Goddard Linings. 

92-94-96 Bleecker St., New York 



Witchtex Can Be Used in Hems 

How Many Fashions 
Are Launched 

Every big dressmaker in Paris caters to the theatrical 
trade and it is said that almost any stylish, good- 
looking woman who is before the public can, by 
signing a contract to purchase all of her dresses — 
those for both professional and private use — from 
the one house, take a choice of all the models at 
300 francs, notwithstanding that some of the models 
often run as high as 1,500 francs. 
This is done to secure their entire custom and their 
services are walking advertisements. 
This is also the chief reason why fashions can be 
most easily launched in Paris. For the Paris 
dressmaker, after creating a striking novelty, has 
always the medium through which to display it 
publicly. 

Famous Paris Designers 

No doubt you have often wondered from whence 
come so many styles that are brought out from 
season to season, or where they have their inspira- 
tion. The list given below contains those who may 
be credited with a majority of styles worn by both 
the American as well as European women. The 
discerning woman will at once recognize the handi- 
work of some of these artists by a study of the 
following interesting notes concerning them: 
Beer — Place Vendome — Noted as the handsomest 
quarters of any of the Paris dressmakers. An 
atmosphere of great refinement surrounds all Beer 
models. 

Bernard — Avenue de 1' Opera — This house caters 
very extensively to the American trade and sells 
the majority of its models to garment manufac- 
turers in the United States. It enjoys great 
success with tailored suits, separate coats and 
furs. 
BuUoz— rue Royale— One of the younger and yet 



Witchtex Can Be Used in Collars and Cuffs 

a most successful dressmaker. Mr. BuUoz was for 
many years the head designer for Beer, of the 
Place Vendome. He does all of his own designing 
and is known as a man of exquisite taste and fer- 
tility of ideas. 

Gallot Soeurs — Avenue Matignon near the 
Palace Elys^e, official home of the President of 
France — Firm owned by three sisters between 
50 and 60 years of age. Caters largely to theatrical 
and operatic custom. 

Gheruit — 21 Place Vendome — Built up under 
the personal direction of Madame Cheruit. The 
business just prior to the war was sold to Mesdames 
Woermser and Boulanger, who conduct it under the 
name of Cheruit; though Madame Cheruit is no 
longer active. 

Doeuillet — Place Vendome — One of the most 
personally conducted dressmaking establishments 
in Paris, the entire direction being in the hands 
of Monsieur Doeuillet himself. This house has a 
fine following among the elite and is also very 
popular with American importing firms. 
Doucet — Rue de la Paix, not far from Paquin*s 
— Doucet customers are mostly private people and 
include great numbers of fashionable women. 
The founder of the House of Doucet started business 
as a shirt-maker and haberdasher. He was the 
first ladies' tailor in Paris. This house also furnishes 
costumes to many of the big theaters and is noted 
for its classic styles. 

DrecoU — Place de TOpera — Original house in 
Vienna. Paris house now owned by Swiss and 
English capitalists. Very successful and of high 
standing. At present under English management. 
Jeanne Lanvin — Faubourg St. Honore — 
Madame Jeanne Lanvin was formerly a successful 
milliner, but for the past few years has come to the 
front as a producer of successful models that are 
of the type referred to as "little dresses" — frocks 
of simple and girlish and becoming lines. The 
Lanvin dress is always marked by some original 
touch. 

Jenny — 70 Avenue des Champs Elysees — ^Very 



Witchiex Can Be Used for Belt Foundations 

well known and popular firm of recent organization, 
as compared with other firms. Madame Jenny 
gives personal attention to the designing and her 
husband is the business manager. This house has 
a great following both in Paris and with American 
buyers. Noted for simple, youthful styles. 
Martial et Armand— Place Vendome — The 
Martial et Armand quarters are among the 
handsomest in Paris, occupying a palatial residence 
in which dwelt, at one time, various Ministers of 
State during the reigns of Louis XIV and XV. 
Besides the large and successful dressmaking 
business the Martial et Armand shop also makes 
a specialty of trousseaux and children's wear. 
Paquin — Rue de la Paix, near Place Vendome 
— English company with Sir John Barker, of the 
Barker Stores, London, president of the organiza- 
tion. Very high class establishment. Managed 
by Madame Paquin herself since the death of her 
husband. 

Paul Poiret — Avenue d'Antin — Noted for his 
extreme and sometimes eccentric dress concep- 
tions; daring in color scheme as well as design. 
Inactive since the war. 

Redfern — rue de Rivoli, facing the Gardens of 
Tuilleries — Through one of the leading concerns 
of Paris this firm is wholly English in its character. 
Their creations are somewhat influenced by eccen- 
tric or ephemeral fashion developments. This 
house is celebrated for the use of rich materials in 
exclusive patterns. 

Worth — 7 rue de la Paix — Well-known English 
house of practically three generations' standing. 
Founder was the dressmaker for Queen Victoria 
and other royal women of her period. Business 
now operated under direction of second and third 
generations. House noted for dignified and sump- 
tuous style of dress. This firm makes more court 
presentation gowns than any other in Paris. 



Witchtex Can Be Used in Fanc^ Work 




The Dressmaker's Verdict 



"Yes madam, I secure the necessary flare 
and fullness in your skirt by inserting bands 
of Witchtex at hip and hem! 

"Dressmakers and designers everywhere 
have tested and accepted this modern crin- 
oline as the practical lining, interlining and 
distending material. It is our foundation for the current modes." 




The creations of Premet, Paquin, Klein, Bul- 
loz and other famous artists emphasize the ne- 
cessity of Witchtex~the Modern Crinoline. 

Full 36 inches wide. 

Sold at All Good Lining Counters. 

If unable to get Witchtex at your favorite 
store, write 

J. W. GODDARD & SONS, Inc. 

Sole Selling Agents for Witchtex and distributors 
of Goddard " Whiteweaves" ' and Linings. 

92-94-96 Bleecker Street, New York 




LIBRARY OF CONGRESS 



018 529 377 4 



^mAwinmmm i 



'Ae MODERN CniHOLINE 



A RESILIENT 
LINING 



